Spring is the season when gardeners across the United States awaken their beds, pots, and raised planters with the promise of fresh, home‑grown vegetables. Whether you’re a seasoned grower or a first‑time homeowner eager to taste the difference between a supermarket tomato and one you harvested just weeks ago, a well‑planned planting schedule is your roadmap to success. In this guide we’ll walk through a month‑by‑month calendar, share expert soil‑prep tips, explain how to time seed starting and transplanting, and provide actionable advice that adapts to every USDA hardiness zone. By the end, you’ll have a clear, actionable plan that turns a blank spring garden into a thriving vegetable oasis.
Understanding Your USDA Hardiness Zone
America’s climate varies dramatically—from the frost‑prone plains of North Dakota to the mild, almost year‑round warmth of Southern California. The USDA Hardiness Zone map divides the country into 13 zones based on average annual minimum temperatures. Knowing your zone is the first step in crafting a planting schedule that avoids late frosts and maximizes growing days.
Here’s a quick way to identify your zone:
- Visit the how to start a vegetable garden from scratch page for a printable zone map.
- Enter your ZIP code into the USDA’s online tool.
- Note the “last frost date” and “first frost date” for your region; these dates anchor your planting calendar.
Once you have those dates, you can back‑track to schedule indoor seed starting, direct sowing, and transplanting with confidence.
Preparing Your Soil for Spring Planting
Healthy soil is the foundation of a productive garden. In early spring, before the soil has warmed, take the opportunity to amend, test, and condition it.
Soil Testing
Purchase a simple pH and nutrient test kit from your local garden center or send a sample to a cooperative extension service. Ideal pH for most vegetables ranges from 6.0 to 7.0. If adjustments are needed, add lime to raise pH or elemental sulfur to lower it, following the package directions.
Organic Matter and Compost
Incorporate 2–4 inches of well‑rotted compost or aged manure into the top 12 inches of soil. This improves structure, water retention, and provides a slow release of nutrients. For raised beds, mix compost with a balanced, organic potting mix to achieve a light, fluffy medium.
Cover Crops and Green Manures
If you finished a winter garden early, consider planting a cover crop such as winter rye or clover. These crops protect the soil from erosion, suppress weeds, and add nitrogen when turned under before planting your vegetables.

Month‑by‑Month Planting Calendar
The following schedule assumes a typical temperate zone (zones 5–7). Adjust the dates forward or backward by 1–2 weeks based on your local frost data.
February
- Indoor Seed Starting: Begin tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants 8–10 weeks before the last frost. Use grow lights and a seed‑starting mix.
- Herb Seeds: Start basil, cilantro, and parsley indoors. They can be transplanted earlier than nightshades.
- Cool‑Season Crops: Direct sow peas, spinach, and radishes as soon as the soil can be worked (soil temperature 40–45°F).
March
- Transplant Seedlings: If you live in zones 6–7, harden off tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings and plant them in a protected greenhouse or cold frame.
- Direct Sow: Plant carrots, beets, turnips, and kale. Use row covers to protect against late frosts.
- Garden Beds: Prepare beds for beans, corn, and squash by adding a balanced organic fertilizer (e.g., 5‑10‑5).
April
- Last Frost Watch: Keep an eye on local forecasts. When the risk of frost drops below 20 %, begin transplanting hardy seedlings (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower).
- Warm‑Season Direct Sowing: Plant beans, corn, cucumbers, and summer squash after the soil reaches 60°F.
- Companion Planting: Interplant marigolds and nasturtiums to deter nematodes and aphids.
May
- Full Transplanting: Move all remaining nightshades (tomatoes, peppers, eggplants) into the garden. Space tomatoes 24–36 inches apart and provide sturdy cages.
- Succession Planting: Sow a second round of lettuce, radishes, and carrots every two weeks for a continuous harvest.
- Water Management: Install drip irrigation or soaker hoses to deliver deep, consistent moisture.
June
- Harvest Early Crops: Begin harvesting early varieties of peas, beans, and salad greens.
- Mid‑Season Planting: Direct sow a second planting of corn and beans for a late‑summer crop.
- Pest Monitoring: Scout for squash vine borers, tomato hornworms, and cucumber beetles. Use handpicking or organic controls as needed.

July
- Heat Management: Mulch heavily around root zones to keep soil cool and retain moisture.
- Plant Fall Crops: Direct sow broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage for a fall harvest. These cool‑season vegetables benefit from the warm summer soil to establish roots.
- Continue Succession: Plant a third round of lettuce and radishes every two weeks.
August
- Harvest Main Crops: Tomatoes, peppers, and summer squash should be at peak production. Pick regularly to encourage more fruit set.
- Cover Crops: After harvesting beans and peas, sow a cover crop to protect soil over winter.
- Soil Amendment: Add a side‑dressing of compost or well‑rotted manure to beds that show nutrient depletion.
September
- Plant Garlic and Onions: Set garlic cloves and onion sets before the first hard freeze.
- Fall Harvest: Continue harvesting tomatoes, peppers, and beans. Use a frost cloth if nights start to dip below 40°F.
- Prepare for Winter: Clean garden beds, remove spent plants, and apply a thick layer of straw or leaf mulch.
October–November
- Final Harvest: Collect any remaining root crops (carrots, beets) and leafy greens.
- Winter Protection: Cover perennial beds with burlap or a cold frame to extend the growing season for hardy greens like kale.
- Plan Next Year: Take notes on what performed well, which varieties need replacement, and consider rotating families to reduce disease pressure.

Expert Tips for a Smooth Spring Planting Experience
1. Harden Off Seedlings Properly
Before moving indoor seedlings outdoors, expose them gradually to external conditions. Start with 2‑hour outdoor sessions in a shaded spot, increasing time and sunlight each day over a week. This reduces transplant shock and promotes vigorous growth.
2. Use Row Covers Strategically
Lightweight floating row covers can raise ambient temperature by 5–10°F, protecting early crops from late frosts while still allowing pollinators to pass. Secure the edges with soil or garden staples to prevent wind lift.
3. Implement Succession Planting
Staggered planting ensures a steady supply of vegetables throughout the season. For example, sow a new batch of lettuce every 10–14 days. Use a simple calendar or a gardening app to track planting dates.
4. Practice Crop Rotation
Rotate plant families each year (e.g., beans → brassicas → nightshades) to break disease cycles and balance soil nutrients. This is especially important for legumes and heavy feeders like tomatoes.
5. Leverage Companion Planting
Companions such as basil with tomatoes, or carrots with onions, can improve flavor, deter pests, and maximize space. Learn more about beneficial pairings on our front yard garden design on a budget page.
Watering, Mulching, and Fertilizing Best Practices
Consistent moisture is crucial for root development, especially for transplants. Drip irrigation delivers water directly to the root zone, reducing evaporation and leaf disease. Mulch with straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings to keep soil temperatures stable and suppress weeds.
For fertilization, apply a balanced organic fertilizer (e.g., 10‑10‑10) at planting, then side‑dress with compost mid‑season. Heavy feeders like tomatoes and peppers benefit from additional potassium (e.g., a side‑dress of wood ash or a potassium‑rich seaweed extract).

Dealing with Common Spring Pests and Diseases
Spring gardens often face a range of pests, from aphids to flea beetles. Early detection and integrated pest management (IPM) are key.
Aphids
These tiny insects can cause leaf curling and transmit viruses. Introduce ladybugs or use a mild neem oil spray early in the morning.
Flea Beetles
These can chew holes in seedlings. Use floating row covers and apply a dusting of diatomaceous earth around the base of plants.
Early Blight (Tomatoes)
Spotting brown lesions with concentric rings? Remove affected leaves, improve air circulation, and apply a copper‑based fungicide if needed.
Powdery Mildew
Common on cucumbers and beans, especially in humid conditions. Water at the base, space plants properly, and spray a solution of milk and water (1:9) to suppress the fungus.
Extending the Growing Season
Even in cooler zones, you can keep harvesting well into fall and early winter.
Cold Frames and Mini‑Greenhouses
Construct a simple cold frame using old windows or a PVC hoop house. This creates a micro‑climate that can protect leafy greens and extend tomato production.
Season‑Extending Mulch
Apply a thick layer (4–6 inches) of straw or leaves after the first frost to insulate root zones. Remove before spring to avoid smothering new growth.
Choosing Late‑Season Varieties
Opt for varieties bred for short days and cooler temperatures. For tomatoes, try “Early Girl” or “Sub Arctic Plenty.” For beans, select “Kentucky Wonder” for a longer harvest window.
Harvest Timing and Post‑Harvest Care
Harvesting at the right moment maximizes flavor and encourages continued production.
- Tomatoes: Pick when fully colored and slightly soft to the touch. A gentle twist should release the fruit.
- Peppers: Harvest green for a milder flavor or let them ripen to red, orange, or yellow for increased sweetness.
- Root Crops: Pull carrots and beets when they reach ½‑1 inch in diameter. Larger roots may become woody.
- Leafy Greens: Use the “cut‑and‑come‑again” method—snip outer leaves, allowing the plant to keep producing.
After harvesting, store vegetables in a cool, dark place or refrigerate to preserve freshness. For herbs, consider drying or freezing; see our guide on how to grow herbs at home outdoors for tips on preserving flavor.

Planning for Next Year’s Spring Garden
Reflection is a vital part of gardening success. As the season winds down, take notes on:
- Which varieties yielded the most produce?
- What pest pressures were most problematic?
- How effective were your row covers and cold frames?
- Did you achieve a steady succession harvest?
Use this information to adjust your planting calendar, experiment with new heirloom varieties (check out our heirloom tomato varieties to grow page for inspiration), and refine soil amendment strategies.
When is the best time to start indoor tomato seedlings for a spring garden?
Start tomato seeds 8–10 weeks before your region’s average last frost date. For most USDA zones 5–7, this means sowing in late February to early March. Use grow lights and keep the temperature around 70°F for optimal germination.
How can I protect my spring seedlings from unexpected late frosts?
Use lightweight floating row covers or garden fabric to trap heat and raise the ambient temperature by 5–10°F. Secure the edges to the ground and remove the cover during the day to allow light and pollinators in.
What are the top companion plants for tomatoes in a spring garden?
Basil, marigold, and nasturtium are excellent companions. Basil can improve tomato flavor and deter pests, while marigolds and nasturtiums repel nematodes and aphids. Plant them around the base of each tomato plant.
How do I know when to transplant seedlings outdoors?
Transplant when seedlings have 2–3 true leaves, the soil temperature is consistently above 50°F, and the danger of frost is less than 20 % (usually a week after the average last frost date). Harden them off for a week before full planting.
Can I grow a second harvest of cool‑season crops after the summer heat?
Yes. In midsummer, sow a second round of broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and carrots for a fall harvest. Use shade cloths if temperatures stay above 85°F, and keep soil consistently moist to encourage quick germination.