Peonies are the quintessential garden classics—large, fragrant blooms that appear each spring with a drama that can turn any garden into a show‑stopper. Whether you’re a seasoned horticulturist or a budding backyard gardener, mastering the art of peony care ensures you’ll enjoy vibrant, long‑lasting flowers year after year. In this guide we’ll walk through everything from soil preparation and planting to pruning, pest management, and winter protection, all while sprinkling in expert tips and practical advice that you can apply right away. Let’s dig in and discover how to nurture these beloved perennials to their full glory.
Understanding Peony Basics
Before you get your hands dirty, it helps to know the three main types of peonies you’ll encounter in U.S. gardens: herbaceous, tree, and intersectional (or Ito) hybrids. Herbaceous peonies die back to the ground each winter, re‑emerging in early spring with fresh foliage. Tree peonies, with their woody stems, retain their structure year‑round and often bloom later in the season. Intersectional hybrids blend the best of both worlds, offering the robust growth of herbaceous varieties with the larger, more colorful blooms of tree peonies.
All peonies share a love for well‑drained soil, full sun (at least six hours of direct light), and a period of winter chill—known as vernalization—to set buds properly. In most parts of the United States, peonies need 4–6 weeks of temperatures below 45°F (7°C) to produce a full display of flowers. Understanding these fundamentals sets the stage for successful planting and long‑term health.

Choosing the Right Variety for Your Garden
When selecting a peony, consider your garden’s climate, space, and aesthetic goals. For cooler northern regions, classic herbaceous varieties like ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ or ‘Karl Rosenfield’ thrive. Warmer southern zones often favor tree peonies such as ‘Bokhara’ or the hardy intersectional ‘Shirley Temple,’ which can tolerate higher summer temperatures.
Don’t overlook color preferences—peonies boast an impressive palette ranging from soft pastels to deep reds and even bi‑color blooms. If you love contrast, pair a white herbaceous peony with a dark‑red tree peony for a striking visual effect. Keep an eye on bloom time, too: early bloomers (mid‑April) provide a head start, while late bloomers (late May) extend the season’s interest.
Planting Your Peony: Step‑by‑Step Guide
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
Choose a location that receives full sun and has well‑draining soil. Peonies dislike soggy roots, so if your garden has heavy clay, amend it with coarse sand, compost, or well‑rotted manure to improve texture. Aim for a soil pH between 6.5 and 7.0; a simple garden soil test can confirm this.
Depth and Spacing
Plant herbaceous peonies with the “eyes” (the buds where new stems will emerge) about 2 inches (5 cm) below the soil surface. Tree peonies should have their buds just ½ inch (1.3 cm) below the surface. Space herbaceous varieties 3–4 feet apart to allow airflow, and give tree peonies a little more room—about 4–5 feet—since they develop larger canopies.
Planting Process
- Dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the root ball.
- Loosen the soil at the bottom and mix in a balanced organic compost.
- Place the peony in the hole, positioning the eyes at the correct depth.
- Backfill with native soil mixed with compost, firm gently to remove air pockets.
- Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
After planting, apply a 2‑inch layer of mulch (such as shredded bark) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Keep mulch a few inches away from the crown to prevent rot.
Watering and Soil Management
Peonies need consistent moisture, especially during their first two growing seasons as they establish a strong root system. Water deeply once a week, providing about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water. In hotter climates, increase frequency to twice a week, ensuring the soil stays evenly moist but never waterlogged.
Mulching not only conserves water but also protects roots from temperature fluctuations. As spring approaches, you can gradually pull back mulch to allow soil to warm, which encourages vigorous growth.
Fertilizing for Robust Blooms
Peonies are moderate feeders. In early spring, as new shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow‑release fertilizer (10‑10‑10) at a rate of ½ cup per mature plant. Avoid high‑nitrogen formulas, which can promote foliage at the expense of flowers. Follow up with a light application of a low‑nitrogen bloom‑enhancer (such as a 5‑10‑10) after the first flush of blooms to encourage a second wave in later summer, if your variety is double‑blooming.
Organic options work beautifully, too. A side dressing of well‑composted manure or a layer of aged horse manure in the fall supplies nutrients and improves soil structure for the next growing season.
Pruning and Deadheading
Proper pruning is essential for peony health and repeat blooming. After the final frost, remove any dead foliage—cut stems down to the ground, being careful not to damage the crowns. This clean‑up reduces disease pressure and improves airflow.
Deadheading, or removing spent blooms, is optional but beneficial. Snip off wilted flowers just above the first set of healthy leaves. This directs the plant’s energy toward developing new buds rather than seed production.
Winter Care: Protecting Your Peonies Through Cold
Even though peonies are hardy, extreme winter conditions can cause crown damage. In colder zones (USDA zones 3–5), apply a thick mulch layer (3–4 inches) after the first hard freeze. In milder zones, a lighter mulch is sufficient.
If you live in an area with heavy snow, avoid piling snow directly onto the crowns. Gently brush excess snow away to prevent crushing. In regions with freeze‑thaw cycles, consider covering the crowns with a breathable garden fabric or burlap to moderate temperature fluctuations.
Pest and Disease Management
Peonies are generally resilient, but a few common issues can arise:
Botrytis Blotch
Also known as “gray mold,” this fungal disease appears as brown spots on petals, eventually turning gray. To prevent it, ensure good airflow, avoid overhead watering, and remove affected petals promptly. A fungicidal spray with copper or neem oil applied at first sign can keep the problem in check.
Peony Leaf Spot
Small, dark spots on foliage are usually caused by fungal pathogens. Remove infected leaves and improve spacing. A weekly application of a sulfur‑based fungicide during wet periods helps prevent spread.
Insect Pests
Peonies may attract aphids, spider mites, and peony weevils. For aphids, a strong spray of water or a gentle insecticidal soap works well. Spider mites thrive in dry conditions; increase humidity by misting and apply neem oil if infestations become severe. Peony weevils can be hand‑picked or controlled with an appropriate beetle‑targeted pesticide.
Dividing and Replanting Your Peonies
Peonies benefit from being divided every 8–10 years to maintain vigor and prevent overcrowding. The best time to divide is in the fall after foliage has died back, or early spring before new growth begins. Follow these steps:
- Dig up the mature clump carefully, preserving as much root as possible.
- Use a sharp knife to separate the crown into sections, each with at least 3–4 eyes.
- Trim any damaged or overly long roots, and replant immediately at the proper depth.
- Water thoroughly and apply a fresh layer of mulch.
For detailed guidance on the division process, check out our how to divide perennials guide.
Companion Planting and Garden Design Ideas
Peonies look spectacular when paired with plants that provide contrasting foliage or complementary bloom times. Consider planting low‑growing hostas or ferns beneath the peony canopy for a lush, layered effect. Early‑blooming tulips or crocuses can add a splash of color before peonies emerge, while late‑blooming asters extend the garden’s interest into fall.
If you’re interested in vertical garden concepts, peonies can be the focal point of a vertical garden wall, especially when combined with trailing clematis vines for height and drama. For a modern twist, integrate peonies with succulent garden arrangements, using the succulents’ architectural forms to frame the soft, rounded peony blooms—see our succulent garden design ideas for inspiration.

Seasonal Care Calendar
Keeping a simple calendar helps ensure you don’t miss any critical tasks:
- Early Spring (Mar–Apr): Remove winter mulch, inspect crowns, apply balanced fertilizer.
- Mid‑Spring (Apr–May): Deadhead spent blooms, monitor for pests, water consistently.
- Summer (Jun–Jul): Light watering, apply low‑nitrogen bloom booster if a second flush is desired.
- Fall (Sep–Oct): Cut back foliage, divide mature clumps, apply organic mulch.
- Winter (Nov–Feb): Add extra mulch in cold zones, protect crowns from heavy snow.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can slip up. Here are pitfalls to watch for:
- Planting Too Deep: Eyes buried deeper than 2 inches can hinder spring emergence.
- Over‑Watering: Saturated soil leads to root rot; always check soil moisture before watering.
- Excessive Nitrogen: Too much nitrogen promotes foliage over flowers.
- Ignoring Sunlight: Peonies need full sun; shaded spots result in weak growth.
- Neglecting Winter Protection: In colder climates, insufficient mulch can damage crowns.
Harvesting and Using Peony Blooms
Fresh peony petals are prized in floral arrangements, potpourri, and even culinary applications. To harvest, cut stems in the morning when buds are fully open but before the heat of the day. Keep the stems in a bucket of cool water until you’re ready to arrange them. For dried arrangements, spread petals on a screen in a cool, dry place for 2–3 days, then store in airtight containers.
Conclusion: Enjoy the Reward of Peony Care
With the right preparation, consistent care, and a bit of seasonal attention, peonies will reward you with spectacular, fragrant displays year after year. Their longevity and timeless beauty make them a worthwhile investment for any garden, whether you’re planting a small border or a grand estate. Embrace the process, watch your garden transform, and let the elegant peony blooms become the centerpiece of your outdoor sanctuary.



When is the best time to plant peonies?
The optimal planting time is in the fall after the first hard frost, or early spring before new growth begins. Fall planting allows roots to establish before winter, while spring planting gives the plant a full growing season to settle.
How deep should I plant the peony crowns?
Herbaceous peony eyes should be planted about 2 inches (5 cm) below the soil surface. For tree peonies, place the eyes just ½ inch (1.3 cm) below the surface to avoid crown rot.
Do peonies need a lot of water?
Peonies need consistent moisture, especially during their first two years. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, adjusting for hotter climates or heavy rain. Avoid waterlogged soil, which can cause root rot.
How can I prevent fungal diseases on peonies?
Ensure good air circulation, water at the base of the plant (not overhead), and promptly remove infected petals. Applying a copper‑based fungicide at the first sign of disease can also keep Botrytis and leaf spot under control.
When should I divide my peonies?
Divide peonies every 8–10 years, preferably in the fall after foliage dies back or early spring before new growth. This rejuvenates the plant, improves air flow, and encourages stronger blooms.